INTRODUCTION TO THE FOUR MAIN BLOUSE STYLES

In this article I’ll cover the FOUR MAIN blouse styles that are currently prevalent in ethnic wear and worn with saree. In most of these a lot of variations are possible leading to hundreds of different designs. For a very long time we have seen women wearing the standard typical blouses like HALF KATORI, FULL KATORI and FOUR TUCKS (Details are given below). More designer versions were seen in movies but ladies didn’t seem to try those patterns. The wave of liberation has caught up with Indian women and we are willing to experiment more with the clothes we wear. Social media too has a very big role as all the pictures are shared and everyone likes to look different and be appreciated. A more recent addition to the blouse styles is the PRINCESS LINE. All are covered below in detail. The designs that we have personally stitched for our customers with these styles and variations added to it will be covered in the next post.

PATTERN: FOUR TUCKS

This is one of the very basic pattern in saree blouse. The cup formation in front is achieved through FOUR tucks/ darts – one at the waist, one at the side, one at the arm hole and the fourth on the breast line. This is designed for a figure with prominent busts. Opening can be kept in front or at the back. Detailed drafting will be covered in later posts.

Challenges:

Although this was earlier very much in use with a saree it does have its drawbacks. Through personal experience I have learnt that it does not suite women with very heavy bust. So women with very heavy bust wearing this design have an issue in raising their arm as the blouse tends to rise as well. This challenge is overcome in yet another style called “HALF KATORI” which is explained below.

Variations:

Lots of variations are possible in this style in terms of the neck patterns. Advanced variations as shown in image 2 below where the lining and the fabric below are only reaching just above the bust in a net blouse are easily achieved. Padded blouses can easily be made in this style. Even choli style long blouses can be stitched with this style. The dart that’s at the waist needs to be manipulated according to the body shape.

Saree Draping Style:

Traditional styles like draping it Bengali style (Pallu behind), Gujrati style (Pallu in front) with the pallu pleated or left open suite well this blouse style. The style of draping where one side of the front body is left uncovered with the saree is not advisable with this blouse style as the stitches of the darts are very prominent. If the blouse is fully embroidered or printed then one can try this style as then the darts are not that visible.

PATTERN: HALF KATORI

As mentioned above this is a modification to the FOUR TUCKS PATTERN for women with heavier busts. In this pattern the basic four darts as mentioned above are made for the bust shape. In addition a yoke of 2” to 3” is added at the waist. This addition of yoke helps in holding the blouse in place even when the arms are raised.

Challenges:

In my growing up years I have seen this pattern being used extensively by my mother and other aunties. That’s because it was the most comfortable and manageable blouse patterns with less number of seams as compared to FULL KATORI BLOUSE. The only drawback in this is that it can’t be made padded because of the yoke seam. Hence backless options cannot be implemented in this style. Also it can’t be used to make long choli style blouses.

Variations:

Variations are possible only in the neck line both front and back. All types of sleeve variations as usual can be implemented. Advanced variations generally are padded so this style is not feasible.

Saree Draping Style:

Same as that of the FOUR TUCKS PATTERN.

PATTERN: FULL KATORI

In this pattern the front is prepared by using separate pieces of cloth to get the desired shape. This is a quite old fashioned pattern. It’s been observed that mostly ladies from villages in the western part of the country wear this pattern. Even older ladies in the city hailing from the western part of our country prefer this pattern because they have been used to wearing it since earlier times. Because of the separate pieces attached together for the bust part which are cut in bias it gives a firm hold to the bust. So my personal analysis confirms that this firm hold is the reason why rural women prefer it as then one does not need to wear a brassier. 

One of the advantages is that this can generally be made with lesser amount of cloth as compared to all other patterns as small bits of pieces are required.

Challenges:

Like the HALF KATORI BLOUSE this too can’t be made padded because of the many seams in front. Hence backless options cannot be implemented in this style. Many modern day patterns like Chinese collar, halter neck etc. too is not possible. Neck lines that are round or close to round seem to give the best fit. For very small bust sizes appropriate fit might not achieved.

Variations:

Variations are possible in the basic neck lines both front and back, sleeve length and addition of laces etc. at the back and/or sleeves. Just like half katori all types of sleeve variations can be implemented. Advanced variations generally are padded so this style is not feasible.

Saree Draping Style:

Same as that of the FOUR TUCKS PATTERN.

PATTERN: PRINCESS LINE

Most of the modern day blouses and designs are achieved using this pattern. This is the most adaptive style in blouse and almost any design or pattern can be made using this. It uses the famous princess line pattern which starts from the arm hole and extends all the way down to the waist. One dart may or may not be given at the side depending on the cup size. For heavily busted and plus sized women we incorporate a yoke near the waist like the half katori pattern. This helps them get extra grip and the freedom to move their arms any way they like. In short it takes care of the issue of the blouse getting lifted when the arms are raised.

Challenges:

As mentioned earlier it is the most adaptive style so any and every style is almost possible with this pattern. It is comfortable fitting style. Only challenge that I have faced is with older women who are used to the full katori style. In full katori style the grip is pretty tight which does not happen in this. In fact the youngsters like this pattern the most and feel very comfortable in this.

Variations:

Any and all types of variations are possible in this style. All types of neck styles, advanced styles with princess neck line, half net, backless are possible with this pattern. Till now haven’t come across a variation that cannot be achieved with this style. Long choli versions are easily achieved with this. The princess line cut has to be manipulated a bit near the waist for that.

Saree Draping Style:

All types of saree drapes are possible with this kind of blouse. The drapes where one side of the blouse is left visible looks very nice and decent with this blouse style. There aren’t any ugly seams all over the front side unlike the previous blouse styles. The princess line seam looks very neat and can also be lined with a fine pipin in contrast color enhancing its look. 

So I hope I have covered the major types of saree blouse patterns worn with a saree. Later on will also post the different types of variations made by us and the individual drafting.